Post Soviet Blues

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Booked a sleeper train from Tbilisi to Yerevan in the coming weeks. A trip I'm rather looking forward to. Weather as of late hasn't been the most wonderful, feeling more like autumn and winter more than spring going into summer. Rainy days and strong low hanging clouds. A sour feeling mood for a sour feeling city. Outside the train station were the remains of the usually popular street markets that have been attempting to thrive outside since the fall of the Soviet Union. These dense areas in which people walk through daily ending up being the ideal place to try to catch a few Lari on the odd item: books, fruit and vegetables, stationary, or various bits of secondhand clothing from all areas and ages. To describe the place I combined two images in one. A double exposure that shows the remaining people like ghosts in the image.
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Under the blue light not much is to be seen beyond the remaining artificial light in the area. Few people walking by. Mostly empty stalls and environments, it felt sad in a comforting sort of way. Perhaps that was some of the feeling from knowing I'd be leaving soon, though I have a stronger leaning more towards the fact that my own energy had been trained over the course of many grey days and poor sleeping habits. Tiredness setting in with a the mixture of a lingering migraine, something that refused to disappear throughout the day. Coffee didn't help. Water didn't help. Nothing helped. Just one of those days. And the environment certainly portrayed that feeling. A coldness, the blue, the feeling of the after rain that felt like something ended with nothing to replace it. One of the few places on Earth where Bob Dylan's lyrics of "The Times They Are A-Changin'" don't really relate.

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Though I do feel that this area lives on borrowed time in some ways, the many footsteps that pass through have led to urban decay. The steps are withering. The tunnel above that tracks crumbling. Cardboard boxes on its side to hide the holes. And those times have already changed quite significantly. Frescos of the former USSR on the side of apartment buildings that look like they're unoccupied and couldn't stand a strong breath of air. However, very much silently lived in. It was dark, and the fresco of yester-year couldn't quite be made out with the poor lighting and at this distance. I was also shooting on a Helios 44-2, a lens that isn't the sharpest but has its own charm, another relic of that former Union.

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I'm not sure I'll step foot in these environments again once I leave Georgia. Part of me would like to believe I will run through it a few more times and capture it. I usually don't have much attachment to places, but in some ways both Armenia and Georgia have had lasting impressions on me. The two sharing similar pasts but still being vastly different. Particularly in those Post Soviet blues.



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12 comments
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I love looking at frescoes on houses. Here is an example of Soviet mosaics on houses in Minsk

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There aren't that many around Tbilisi. A lot of the mosaics are quite faded or have been removed. Throughout Georgia in other areas there are more in better condition. I believe Rustavi has some in good condition. And I saw a few good ones in Kutaisi too.

Thinking about it, I don't think I ever really saw any in Yerevan. I'm moving back soon so I'll have plenty of time to look around.

They're very beautiful though, I love stumbling across them.

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There’s something hauntingly beautiful about the way you described the post-Soviet atmosphere—like time paused but never healed. Your words coupled with the pictures made feel melancholic but calm. I hope the train to Yerevan brings some warmth your way—both in weather and spirit.

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Coincidentally this very location (and I doubt accidentally) went up in flames a few hours later. The entire market destroyed.

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Planning to do the same this, or next summer!

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I took the sleeper train from Yerevan to Tbilisi around this time last year. I loved it. A day train through the landscape was utterly astonishing. Discovered so many places I want to return to and check out once I'm back in Armenia. This upcoming trip is "off season" so it's a night one, no fun views on the way back this time. I loved the experience though, the train takes you through the mountains and off the main road, some arguably sketchy rails.

But there's so much history in the mountains, all the old industrial towns with some beautiful architecture. All hidden by the mountains and dense forestry. It almost didn't feel real, especially given from Yerevan it's mostly like a desert landscape and flat.

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This looks like a haunting place. I like the moody atmosphere.

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That market was later set ablaze with many of its workers losing everything they had. The only thing that really remained was the Soviet era concrete. Nobody believes it was an accident. These markets have long been discussed by the government and their intent to remove and develop the areas it clear.

It's also the second market to have gone up in flames in recent months.

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