Along the Forgotten Road: Vallejo de Mena

Whether the so-called Old Way or the French Way is the most traveled and, by default, the best known, both by medieval pilgrims who followed the directions of the cleric Aymeric Picaud, author of the famous Codex Calistinus or the first pilgrim's guide, and by the vast majority of pilgrims today, there were other paths, other routes, which, practically forgotten today, also constitute a fascinating life adventure.

We have, for example, the so-called Forgotten Way, which, from the main ports of northern Spain, entered the Plateau through the unknown Merindades of Burgos.

To give you an idea, suffice it to say that these, the Merindades, are located at a relatively insignificant distance from the main ports, and in their surroundings are places that stand out not only for their natural beauty, but also for the enigmas and mysteries posed by their Romanesque architecture, certainly a must-see.

On this occasion, then, the traveler, camera on his shoulder and notebook in hand, finds himself in the monumental Mena Valley, located roughly 49 kilometers from the Cantabrian port of Laredo or about 52 kilometers from another important port, Bilbao and its famous estuary.

Once immersed in this monumental setting, where nature and history merge to make the effort of arriving a monumental adventure, it's hard not to feel not only fascinated but also deeply interested, especially when he lands in a town called Vallejo de Mena and finds before him that metaphorical encyclopedia of beauty and enigmas, which is, without a doubt, its fascinating church of Saint Lawrence.

The Church of Saint Lawrence, whose interior has a gallery in the upper part dedicated to sheltering pilgrims, features, in addition to the monumental west portal, dedicated, in its archetypal sculpture, largely to a symbolic psychitecture aimed at integrating into the pilgrim's thoughts and customs the need for a balance between the carnal and the spiritual—that is, in terms of the time, between the virtuous and the sinful—also two simpler portals, the most important of which is the south portal, known as the Gate of Forgiveness, whose passage guaranteed indulgence and forgiveness of all sins to all those pilgrims who, for health reasons or due to force majeure, could not continue their journey to Compostela.

Erected at the end of the 12th century, when a new style, Gothic, was already beginning to emerge, this striking temple continues to arouse the greatest passions among historians, who are still unconvinced as to whether it originally belonged to the Order of the Temple or the Order of the Hospital of Saint John, based on a strange phrase contained in the will of a noble and powerful woman of the time, Doña Endrequina, who "bequeathed" it to Jerusalem.

Regardless of any argument, the truth is that the Knights Hospitaller appear to have had one of their main commanderies in the region here, a detail that should not surprise us, considering that it was they, precisely, who benefited most from the fall of their rival order, that is, the fall of the Templars, inheriting many of the possessions they held, both in the kingdoms of Spain and abroad. In fact, upon entering the church through the west portal, on the left, are the tombstones of Doña Endrequina and her husband, as well as a monumental sculpture on its capitals. Their curious subject matter also invites speculation.

Perhaps the most relevant examples are the figures who appear to be on a boat trip. Some identify them with the famous scene of Jesus with the Apostles in Shakespeare's storm on the Sea of ​​Galilee. Others, perhaps more interested in relating them to the Apostle James and his fabulous legend, observe in him the journey of his mortal remains from the Holy Land to Spain.

Whatever the case, the truth is that, in addition to the archetypal figures of Romanesque sculpture being designed to shape the minds of both the faithful and pilgrims, they always interact so that, ultimately, one is guided by one's own impressions.

Not only does the place deserve a leisurely visit for its marvelous architecture and its contents, but also because, as mentioned at the beginning, the surroundings where it is located are simply spectacular, and entering it means, without a doubt, opening yourself up to the experience of a monumental and unforgettable adventure.

NOTICE: Both the text and the accompanying photographs are my exclusive intellectual property and are therefore subject to my Copyright.