Kyiv, Podil. Part 1 ~ Little Stories

The legend says:

"And there were three brothers: one was named Kiy, and the second was Shchek, and the third was Khoryv, and their sister was Lybid. Kiy lived on one hill, and Shchek sat on the second hill, while on the third resided Khoryv. They built a town and named it Kyiv after their oldest brother." Nestor Litopysets, Tale of the Bygone Years.[source]

As you see, Kyiv means the city of Kyi.

So, would you mind to stroll around the city with me? It's +35 C degrees today in Kyiv, summer decided to hit us so that we'll not miss it until next year, LOL. But I offer you a virtual tour. Just make yourself comfortable and enjoy. I will show you an area with an ancient history and modern charm - Podil.

Origin of the name

In the Ukrainian language, the word Podil means the lower part of a skirt, dress, coat, or other long cloth. And this is the name of the ancient area of Kyiv, which stretches in the lowlands along the Dnipro River, while the central part stands on the hills. In the days of Rus, it was a district of craftsmen and river workers.

The soul of the city

Nowadays, this is a very distinctive area of Kyiv. Low buildings, narrow streets, old tram tracks and old trams. The road surface here is one of the worst in Kyiv. The same applies to sewage. And no repair significantly affects their condition. It seems that all this was created back in the days of Rus and since then it has undergone only urgent repairs, so if you value your vehicle or your life you will drive slowly. Actually, this is only half a joke, because the oldest house in Kyiv is located in Podil. And the oldest bridge as well. Today you will see both.

This is an area of unrestrained art and creativity, unexpected and bold decisions, youth parties and colorful nightlife. If you have been to Rome, then this is Kyiv Trastevere. If the heart of Kyiv beats on Khreshchatyk, the Maidan, or the hills of Pechersk, then its soul is here, in Podil. Although, this is just my own opinion.

I adore this area. He is constantly changing and always has something up his sleeve to surprise me. If I want to go for a walk alone or with friends - this is it. Looking for the tastiest burgers or the сinema with the best selection of films - you are here. Here, the combination of ancient, old, and new takes on a variety of forms, from ugly to almost artistic.

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The oldest university

Podil is home to the most famous and the oldest university (at least in Kyiv) - the Kyiv-Mohyla Academy, in slang - Mohylianka. It was founded in 1615 and it residents in the original building since then. Metropolitan of Kyiv Petro Mohyla built an education system in it based on the model of Jesuit educational institutions. Also, the school was supported by the Zaporizhzhya Army (Ukrainian Kossaks) and, in particular, Hetman Sagaidachny (Hetman was the name of the head of state and the highest military commander at that time).

Many talented and famous Ukrainians and not only Ukrainians studied here. Among the others is the name you might know - Mikhail Lomonosov, the same Russian scientist. BTW, he was the first Russian scientist with an academic education.

The Academy's main building is located on Kontraktova Square. It is one of the oldest in Kyiv, originated during the times of Kyivan Rus. After the destruction of the Upper City by the Mongol Tatars, the center of Kyiv moved to Podil, and Contract Square became central. (wiki)

Even 10 years ago, this square was occupied by cars. In 2017, this part was made pedestrian. As an experiment. He turned out to be successful, locals like to walk here. It became the venue for street markets, exhibitions and shows, and also they installed a Ferris wheel.

In the photo below, behind the Ferris wheel, there is A profitable building and a bell tower that belonged to the monastery. Now these buildings are occupied by the National Bank of Ukraine.

In the courtyard of the academy, on the side wall of the inner building, I saw a mural dedicated to education.

This is a luxury boutique Hotel "Bursa". I don't know exactly what the hotel was named after. Perhaps in honor of the city of Bursa in Turkey. But most likely not. The Ukrainian word bursa is now rarely heard. Earlier (in Soviet times) this was the name given to educational institutions similar to what we call a college. And even earlier this was the name given to a theological school or seminary or a dormitory for poor students of these schools or seminaries.

In 2018, the jury of the 2018 Global Excellence Awards awarded this hotel first place for interior design.

Churches

Podil is the area of Kyiv that was least damaged in WWII. This is why so many historical architecture survived, and churches in particular. There is a church here, which is considered the oldest Christian church of Rus (Kievan Rus) known from written sources (not the one in the photo).

But the most famous temple in Podil is definitely St. Andrew's Church. One of Kyiv's business cards. It stands on the top of the hill on the edge of the district and overlooks the surroundings and the Dnipro River.

Here in Podil, the St. Andrew's Church is visible almost from any corner.

This is one of the three communal markets of Kyiv - Zhytniy (Rye) Market in the last photo. A building that does not fit into the surrounding architecture, like many things built in the times of the USSR. Although we are already used to it.

Bus station

Remember I mentioned the unexpected decisions? This is one of them. Bus station "Podil". Local buses used to depart from here. You can still find the schedule 07:05 - 18:30 on the Internet.

Now there is a pizzeria "Bus Station". They took the name and seems they did not bother with the repair at all. The walls and the floor looks the same. They made lighting and brought new furniture - long tables, benches, and a few smaller tables with chairs. Oh, and a sofa with 2 armchairs that don't like new. That's it. They left a "Bus route diagram" hanging on the wall!

This wall clock "Soviet-style" is probably original as it turns out to be showing the wrong time, LOL 😂

And I love their summer playground.

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The oldest house in Kyiv

It is located in the heart of Podil. I have been nearby hundreds of times and did not know... After the construction of the Embassy of the Netherlands, the building became impossible to see from the street. You need to go into the courtyard.

Here it is, small and pretty, surrounded on all sides by modern construction. Under the number 7. One of the few brick buildings of the civil architecture of Podil from the end of the 18th century, preserved after the big fire of 1811 One of the few brick buildings of the civil architecture of Podil from the end of the 18th century, preserved after the catastrophic fire of 1811, when in three days the fire destroyed more than 2 thousand houses, 12 churches, 3 monasteries. [1][2]

Street art

I believe this is an area with the biggest number of graffiti and street art. Sometimes you can find something meaningful among meaningless scribbles. If you know what to look for.

SESTRY FELDMAN (Feldman Sisters). They are real sisters and street art artists. Most of their graffiti is here in Podil.

Well, I guess this is enough even for a virtual tour.😊
I hope you enjoyed the pictures and the stories.

I remember I mentioned the oldest bridge, and I didn't forget. But it would be better to show it in the next post because it is a part of my today's walk which turned out into a crazy adventure, considering today's +35.

The sun has already hidden behind the horizon. Tomorrow is another incredibly hot day, and then another one. No grumbles, I know we will miss it in the winter... Anyway, it's time for us to rest.

I thank you for your time,

and see you around!

💙

@zirochka

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