🕌 Under Tamerlane’s Turquoise Dome: A Morning in Gur-e-Amir

Samarkand, morning. Mom and I jump into a taxi right outside the hotel — Gur-e-Amir is literally ten minutes away. The driver, a moustached uncle with a voice like a radio host, hears where we’re going and instantly starts the show: “Tamerlane, brother! He conquered half the world and now rests under the most beautiful dome in Central Asia.” We smile — we’ve heard it before, but it still hits different when told with such pride.

We pull up. Tickets — 30,000 sum each. I take out my new Sony A7, ask the lady at the booth: “Can I shoot inside?” She waves me off with a grin: “Go ahead, today it’s free, enjoy!” Uzbek hospitality — 100 out of 10.

Step through the gate and the heat disappears. Outside it’s blazing sun, inside the courtyard — cool shade under huge plane trees, freshly watered grass, birds chirping. In the middle rises that iconic ribbed turquoise dome you can spot from half the city.

Built in 1404, right after Timur’s death. Originally meant for his beloved grandson Muhammad Sultan, but the Iron Limper himself ended up here too. Legend says when Soviet archaeologists opened the tomb in 1941, they found an inscription: “Whoever disturbs my rest will unleash a foe more terrible than I.” Two days later — June 22. Coincidence? Sure. Still gives you chills.

Under a glass cover — the dark jade tombstone of Timur, the biggest one. Next to it, also under glass, a massive 15th-century Quran, pages yellowed, calligraphy perfect. Around — the graves of Ulugh Beg, Shah Rukh, Miran Shah… the whole Timurid squad in one room.

The original double dome collapsed centuries ago (earthquakes don’t care about greatness), so now you see the mighty stone pillars that once held it — like the skeleton of a giant. They’re slowly restoring everything: scaffolding here and there, fresh bricks laid so carefully you barely notice them.

In the shade along the walls, artisans are working like it’s still the 1600s. An old master carves wooden jewelry boxes, girls paint cobalt-and-white plates, someone stitches bright doppi skullcaps. Prices are a joke — a hand-painted plate 60-70k sum, doppi 30-40k. Mom grabbed two doppi and a small plate “for the memories.” I held a tiny wooden Registan in my palm — every arch perfect. Hands of gold.

We just stood there for a while. Sun rays cutting through the leaves, falling on golden inscriptions inside the chamber. Seven hundred years. No cranes, no hydraulic lifts — just stone, brick, genius, and thousands of nameless hands. Wars, earthquakes, revolutions — and it’s still here. That means we can keep it alive too. We have to.

We walked out quieter than we came in. Mom only said: “We’ll come back here again. And we’ll bring the kids.” I just nodded.

Because Gur-e-Amir isn’t just a mausoleum. It’s a reminder: we’re part of something ancient, huge, and fragile. As long as we remember — it lives.

Thank you, Samarkand. See you soon ❤️🕌

I write my texts myself, correct mistakes and translate via ChatGPT (which is not a violation on Hive)!
All photos were taken by me personally - I am a beginner photographer, so I ask professionals not to judge strictly.

Thank you for sharing these moments with me! Until new stories and new holidays! ✌️

Camera 📷: Sony Alpha 7 IV full-frame
Lens 🔭: Sony FE 70-200mm F: 2.8 GM OSS II
Lens 🔭: Sony FE 90mm F2.8 Macro G OSS
Lens 🔭: Sony FE 20-70 mm F: 4 G
Processed 🛠: Lightroom

photo by openai