The Killer Mountain - Nanga Parbat

At 8126 m (26660 ft), Pakistan's Nanga Parbat is the ninth-highest mountain in the world and one of the most feared peaks in the Himalayas.

The mountain is famous for its enormous south face, the Rupal Face, which rises a staggering 4600 m (15000 ft) straight up from the valley floor. It's one of the tallest vertical walls on Earth. This side has seen some of the most legendary and tragic moments in mountaineering history. Therefore Nanga Parbat is also called "Killer Mountain".

While most visitors experience Nanga Parbat from the famous Fairy Meadows on the northern (Rakhiot) side, which has become the classic, tourist-friendly viewpoint with easy access, comfortable guesthouses, and plenty of crowds, the Tarashing route on the southern Rupal side offers a completely different experience.

This “back side” approach is significantly less touristy, much more remote, and feels far more authentic and wild. You’ll share the trail mainly with local shepherds, yaks, and the occasional hardy trekker instead of large tour groups. The valley is more peaceful and the views of the colossal Rupal Face are even more intimate and overwhelming.

The road to Tarashing isn't exactly one would call a good road. It's a small dirt road, often washed out and damaged and, even if you're riding your own motorcycles like we do, it needs quite some time to reach this remote place. The last proper village in the lush Rupal Valley greeted us with green potato fields, apple orchards, and curious locals who raised eyebrows at our dusty bikes. We set up camp there right above the massive Taraching glacier and stayed for two glorious nights. Perfect for resting the bikes, soaking in the views, and mentally preparing for what was coming.

As always, we took our sweet time in the morning and left our camp for the hike way too late. The plan? There wasn’t really a plan. We just decided to start walking and see what happens.

The real business started straight away: climbing down the lateral moraine of the Tarashing Glacier. The ice groaned and cracked below us like it was personally offended by our presence.

After crossing the glacier on a sketchy but well-trodden path, the trail opened into a stunning green valley. We passed through Rupal village, where the scenery felt like someone had photoshopped the Alps into Pakistan. Wildflowers, clear streams, and that ever-growing silhouette of Nanga Parbat’s monstrous Rupal Face looming ahead. Standing at its base, you feel incredibly small.

After some time of steady hiking, we reached Herrligkoffer Base Camp. The view is pure jaw-drop material: the entire Rupal Face fills your vision.

We checked the time and it still seemed to be early enough to hike another ~6 km (3,8 mi) to Rupal Base Camp.

However, that also meant crossing the giant Bazhin Glacier. This glacier is much wilder and one has to search for the track. There are some hints marked with stone men and one can see little traces on the ice every once in a while. But it takes a lot of time and one has to take care of massive crevasses all across this glacier.

Afterwards the trail leads down into a green wide valley, where we finally reach the beautiful Rupal Base Camp situated below a glacier lake. Compared to many other base camps this place is extremely clean and one can hardly see, that it is used as a base camp every season.

We decided to push a bit further and climb up to the serene glacier lake tucked near the morane right below the icy giants above. Absolute magic. We sat there for a while, munching a few dry cookies, listening to distant avalanches, and feeling the mountain’s sheer indifference to our tiny human efforts.

Then came the hard part: turning around and doing it all over again in reverse.

The descent should have been easier, but our legs had other opinions. By the time we stumbled back into our camp in Tarashing it was already dark. We were dusty, exhausted and hungry. Total hiking distance: around 28 km (17,5 mi) We celebrated with whatever food our camp kitchen could produce and collapsed into our tents, legs screaming but hearts full.

This one-day blitz is definitely not the relaxed way to do it. Most trekkers split it over two days with an overnight at Rupal Base Camp, but it made for an unforgettable adventure. The trail is moderate to challenging – no technical climbing, but the long distance, glacier crossing, and elevation demand good fitness and respect.

The road from Astore is rough and adventurous - exactly how we like it. Two nights of camping there gave us time to explore the village and soak in the peaceful valley before (and after) our mad dash to the base of the 8126 m giant.

Would we do it the same way again? Probably not… but we’d definitely do it. Nanga Parbat doesn’t just show you a mountain. It humbles you, inspires you, and leaves you with stories (and sore legs) you’ll tell for years.