At the Edge of Ice and Sky

Two of the most famous tourist destinations in the Argentine part of Patagonia are the area around Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in Los Glaciares National Park, and Perito Moreno National Park with its breathtaking glacier of the same name. Both rank among the most impressive natural experiences in Patagonia.

Los Glaciares National Park

We were really lucky on our arrival day, because the weather was fantastic what isn't guaranteed in this part of the world. So the locals highly recommended to do the hike to the glacial lakes in the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy region. It usually starts in the small town of El Chaltén, which serves as a base for many trekking routes. Shortly after leaving the village, the trail begins to climb, initially leading through sparse forests. The paths are well-trodden, though in places rocky and, when wet, somewhat slippery.

The trail is clearly marked and passes through varied landscapes from wind-shaped forests to open plains, all the while offering constant views of the striking granite peaks. A particularly memorable moment comes when the glacial lake suddenly appears: milky turquoise in color, often dotted with drifting ice floes and framed by rugged mountains. The weather can change quickly, adding to the intensity of the experience.

We had some energy left and decided to continue up to a higher ridge to admire the breathtaking panorama over the glacial lake before heading back. It was steep and exhausting, but as you can see on the photos absolutely worth in the end.

Perito Moreno National Park

Just a half day’s journey away lies Perito Moreno National Park, making it well worth combining both destinations if the weather allows. In contrast, visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier feels almost like a different kind of experience - far more accessible, yet no less fascinating. Well-developed walkways provide views of the massive ice wall from multiple perspectives. The walls reach heights up to ~70 meters (~240 ft). Massive chunks of ice regularly break off with a thunderous sound and crash into the water, an impressive display that vividly demonstrates the glacier’s dynamic nature.

Overall, the trip combines the more remote and tranquil experience of the Fitz Roy region with the spectacular yet easily accessible scenery at Perito Moreno. A perfect combination for gaining a diverse impression of Patagonia.


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I can't decide which view is better... One of a lake where you had to "work for it" (definitely agree with you that the effort paid off!), or the other one with the glacier behind you! Just breathtaking! I have literally stayed out of words!

Thank you for sharing... Btw. How did your bikes "survive" the trip? 🙂


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They did great, but we had to sell them in Columbia in the end with ~125.000km. It was too expensive to bring them back to Europe. We just came back ftom another 1 year trip to Central Asia. The new bikes are again on ~112.000km now 😁.

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