Getting to know surf

over 2 years ago

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Getting to know surf

"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun" — Phil Edwards

I had a neutral opinion about surfing. On the one hand, it seemed to me that I could easily glide over the waves. On the other hand, I understood the complexity of this type of physical activity.
Lying on one of the beaches of Sri Lanka, I watched beginner surfers. The thought came to me - should I try to stand on the board?
We walked along the line of signs. The instructor was invited to take a surf lesson. I liked the thin, bow-legged boy. He promised to "put me on the board" in one hour. If I do not ride the board 10 meters, he will return the money to me. It sounded too optimistic, but I decided to give it a try anyway.
I remember that iconic movie where the cop was learning to surf. I remember that he made progress in surfing after a few weeks of practice. I had an hour and a half available.
I was pretty good at skateboarding as a kid. Maybe it will help me in surfing?

My hopes were in vain. Skateboarding skills didn't help me. Surf is a completely different element. How to keep balance on this unstable board? How to feel the wave? All this seemed incredible to me.

Of the twenty attempts, two were quite successful. I was able to ride the wave for about 10-15 meters. My instructor was the happiest of all. He shouted that I was able to ride the wave, as he promised.

After an hour and a half of fighting with the waves and with my body, I was completely exhausted. It seemed to me that for an hour I portrayed a roly-poly. It must have looked pretty funny.