STOP AT RABAUL - The city under the ashes

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STOP AT RABAUL - The city under the ashes

PAPOUASIA



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đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Je me lance avec cette sĂ©rie "STOP" dans le rĂ©cit de quelques escales. Je ne vais pas les faire dans l'ordre chronologique, juste par envie des histoires pour dĂ©poussiĂ©rer quelques vieux souvenirs.

Nous sommes ici à Rabaul en Papouasie Nouvelle Guinée.
🇬🇧 I’m embarking with this serie "STOP" in stories of a few stopovers. I won’t do them in order, just out of desire and to dust off some old memories.

We are here at Rabaul in Papua New Guinea.

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đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Je me rappelle d’une nuit abominable. Du haut de mes tout dĂ©buts j’avais pourtant la sensation de bien faire voguer mon voilier. Plus de 5 nƓuds pour traverser le canal situĂ© entre New Ireland et New Britain, Aurora avait fiĂšre allure. Mais ça, c’était avant de virer de bord et de commencer mes « Z » pour remonter le canal. La pluie bĂątait assez fort, mon bord Ă©tait pris, tout Ă©tait bien rĂ©glĂ©, Aurora repartait bĂąbord amures Ă  un bon rythme, mais en un coup d’oeil sur mon Ă©cran GPS toute ma positivitĂ© allait subitement s’effondrait. Aurora repartait exactement sur son sillage qui l’avait menĂ© jusqu’ici. J’avais pourtant rĂ©glĂ© mon voilier au prĂ©s serrĂ©, Aurora devrait dĂ©sormais remonter le vent, mais non, la trace me montrer un retour Ă  la case dĂ©part. Pour la premiĂšre fois depuis mon jeune dĂ©part je me trouver dans une zone de courant trĂšs soutenu. Que ce soit bĂąbord amures ou tribord amures, impossible de remonter le canal. Mes bords Ă©taient d’un plat gĂ©omĂ©trique ! Dehors la pluie forçait, la nuit Ă©tait noire et je ne trouvais pas la solution. A dĂ©faut de succĂšs Ă  la voile, je me rapprochais des cĂŽtes, affalais toutes les voiles et tentais ma chance au moteur, tout droit, en espĂ©rant qu’en bordure de canal le courant serait moins fort. Un nƓud. Pour les non iniciĂ©s : 1,85 km/h. Telle Ă©tait ma vitesse
 C’est pas rapide ! MĂȘme mon pote @terresco court parfois plus vite
!Il m’aura fallu des heures et des heures pour remonter tout doucement le canal et en fin de journĂ©e parvenir Ă  rejoindre la baie de Rabaul.
🇬🇧 I remember an abominable night. From the height of my very beginnings, however, I had the feeling to sail well my sailboat. More than 5 knots to cross the canal located between New Irland and New Britain, Aurora looked great. But that was before I turned around and started my 'Z' to go up the canal. The rain was building quite heavily, my edge was taken, everything was well adjusted, Aurora returned to port looking sharp at a good pace, but in a glance on my GPS screen all my positivity would suddenly collapse. Aurora was going back exactly on its wake that had led it this way. However, I had adjusted my sailboat to close range, Aurora should now move up the wind, but no, the track shows me a return to square one. For the first time since my young departure I find myself in a zone of very strong current. Whether it is on the tailed port or starboard, impossible to go up the canal. My edges were of a geometric plate! Outside the rain was forcing, the night was black and I couldn’t find the solution. In the absence of success in sailing, I was getting closer to the coasts, lowering all the sails and trying my luck with the engine, straight ahead, hoping that at the edge of the canal the current would be less strong. A knot. For the uninitiated: 1.85 km/h. That was my speed... It’s not fast! Even my friend @terresco runs faster sometimes...! It took me hours and hours to slowly climb up the canal and at the end of the day manage to reach the bay of Rabaul.

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đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Peu de gens connaissent Rabaul, mais ceux qui l’ont visitĂ©e s’en rappelleront toute leur vie. Ici l’ambiance des tĂ©nĂšbres rode. Rabaul c’est une ville construite dans une caldeira gigantesque de plusiezurs dizaines de kilomĂštres de diamĂštre. Trois sorties principales, trois volcans dĂ©tourent la caldeira. En 1994, les trois volcans sont entrĂ©s en Ă©ruption simultanĂ©ment. La ville a Ă©tĂ© dĂ©truite par les Ă©ruptions, par la retombĂ©s de cendres, par les tsunamis et les coulĂ©e de boue. Il ne resta rien de la citĂ©. Plus de 500 personnes auront trouvĂ© la mort. Et je me promĂšne 15 ans plus tard ici sans vraiment pouvoir comprendre ou mĂȘme mesurer la grandeur de la catastrophe. Une couche de cendre recoudre 15 ans plus tard une grand partie de la zone. Parfois au milieu de rien, deux ou trois marche d’escalier sortent du dĂ©cor juste pour indiquer qu’ici, avant, il y avait une maison. Ce qui n’a pas Ă©tĂ© dĂ©truit directement par l’éruption, a brĂ»lĂ© sous la retombĂ©e des cendres, et ce qui n’a pas brĂ»lĂ© a Ă©tĂ© recouvert de boue. En fond de dĂ©cor, le Tavurvur laisse encore Ă©chapper de la fumĂ©e comme pour prĂ©venir que tout recommencera un jour.Plus loin sur le chemin de randonnĂ©es des volcans, l’ambiance macabre devient tellement saisissante qu’elle en devient photogĂ©nique. Les tronc de cocotiers sans tĂȘte nous montrent les vestiges d’anciennes forĂȘts, quelques carcasses d’avions et une piste de cendres nous font deviner l’ancien aĂ©roport, et les couleurs ocres sur le chemin des volcans nous prouvent que tout est encore en activitĂ©.
🇬🇧 Few people know Rabaul, but those who have visited it will remember it all their lives. Here the atmosphere of darkness rods. Rabaul is a city built in a gigantic caldera of several tens of kilometers in diameter. Three main exits, three volcanoes divert the caldera. In 1994, the three volcanoes erupted simultaneously. The city was destroyed by eruptions, by the ashfall, by tsunamis and mudslides. Nothing of the city remained. More than 500 people will have died. And I walk here 15 years later without really being able to understand or even measure the magnitude of the disaster. A layer of ash stitches over a large part of the area 15 years later. Sometimes in the middle of nothing, two or three steps come out of the background just to indicate that here, before, there was a house. What was not directly destroyed by the eruption burned under the fallout of ashes, and what did not burn was covered with mud. In the background, the Tavurvur still lets smoke escape as if to prevent everything from happening again one day.Further down the hiking path of the volcanoes, the macabre atmosphere becomes so striking that it becomes photogenic. The trunks of coconut trees without heads show us the remains of ancient forests, some aircraft carcasses and an ash trail make us guess the old airport, and the ochre colors on the way to the volcanoes prove that everything is still active.

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đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Cette escale est inoubliable. Les rĂ©cits des tĂ©moins sont tous chargĂ©s de nostalgie d’une vie abondante que l’on a du mal Ă  imaginer depuis nos yeux de voyageurs de passage. Le jour de mon dĂ©part, le nuage fumant s’élevant au-dessus du volcan prend de l’ampleur poussĂ© au large par les vents. Il restera de longues heures dans le sillage d’Aurora.
🇬🇧 This stopover is unforgettable. The stories of the witnesses are all charged with nostalgia for an abundant life that we have difficulty imagining from our eyes as travelers passing through. On the day of my departure, the smoking cloud rising above the volcano gains momentum pushed off by the winds. There will be long hours in the wake of Aurora.

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Traduction

Note ! Text original is in french, english version. is only a reverso traduction

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"Telle Ă©tait ma vitesse
 C’est pas rapide ! MĂȘme mon pote @terresco court parfois plus vite
!Il " Oui, chaque fois que je cours avec toi on est dans ces vitesses, je dois me brider car je te sent essoufflĂ©.

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L'escale est impressionnante, on en a vu des coins volcanique mais lĂĄ c'est assez lugubre.

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What's that thing in the stream? It looks like gold, but it's not gold grains?

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