STOP AT GLORIEUSES ISLAND - PARADISIAC ATOLL - 15 PHOTOS

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STOP AT GLORIEUSES ISLANDS

PARADISIAC ATOLL



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đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Je me lance dans le rĂ©cit de quelques escales. Je ne vais pas les faire dans l'ordre chronologique, juste par envie des histoires pour dĂ©poussiĂ©rer quelques vieux souvenirs.

Nous sommes au printemps 2014, ou plutĂŽt Ă  l'automne puisque l'histoire se dĂ©roule dans l'hĂ©misphĂšre sud, et commence Ă  Mayotte. Pour ceux qui ne connaissent pas l'Ăźle de Mayotte, c'est un cailloux Français qui se situe dans l'archipel gĂ©ographique des Comores et assez proche de Madagascar. Je suis prof Ă  cette Ă©poque et je prends mes vacances lorsque le ministĂšre de l'Ă©ducation Nationale le dĂ©cide. Les choses ont bien changĂ© depuis, croyez moi !! Avec ma compagne nous envisageons une semaine sur l'atoll des Glorieuses situĂ© Ă  une centaine de milles nautiques de Mayotte, peut-ĂȘtre davantage, je ne me rappelle plus trop. Les Glorieuses font partie de ce que La France nomme les TAFF. Terres Australes et Antartiques Françaises. Pour les non Français d'entre vous, disons que ce sont des restes inhabitĂ©s de la colonisation Françaises. Il est fort probable qu'en ces temps lĂ , La France n'a chassĂ© personne de ces cailloux isolĂ©s. Mais bon, c'est Ă  10 000kms, 15 000kms peut-ĂȘtre de La France MĂ©tropolitaine, c'est Ă  quelques dizaines de kilomĂštres de Madagascar (qui par ailleurs revendique ces territoires), mais c'est Français ! Vas y comprendre quelque chose !! D'un autre cĂŽtĂ© lorsqu'on est comme moi davantage sensible Ă  la Nature qu'Ă  la sociĂ©tĂ© humaine, ce n'est pas plus mal comme cela. Dans l'Ă©tat actuel des choses, La France a installĂ© quelques militaires pour marquer son territoire et interdit tout dĂ©veloppement touristique, industriel, sociĂ©tal ou autre. Croyez moi, sur des bijoux pareils, il suffirait d'une gestion tout autre pour qu'en trĂšs peu de temps, ces paradis naturels se transforment rapidement en sites de vacances pour riches. C'est peut-ĂȘtre d'ailleurs le devenir des Chagos qui tout doucement et logiquement reviennent Ă  Maurice, l'un des premiers industriels touristiques au monde... Mais c'est une autre histoire.
🇬🇧 I’m embarking on the story of a few stopovers. I won’t do them in order, just out of desire and to dust off some old memories.

We are in the spring of 2014, or rather in the autumn since the story takes place in the southern hemisphere, and begins in Mayotte. For those who do not know the island of Mayotte, it is a French stone located in the geographical archipelago of Comoros and quite close to Madagascar. I am a teacher at that time and I take my vacation when the Ministry of National Education decides. Things have changed a lot since then, believe me!! With my partner, we are planning a week on the atoll of Glorieuses located a hundred nautical miles from Mayotte, maybe more, I don’t remember much anymore. The Glorieuses are part of what France calls the TAFF. Terres Australes and Antartiques Françaises. For the non-French among you, let’s say that these are uninhabited remains of French colonization. It is very likely that in those days, France did not chase anyone away from these isolated stones. But well, it’s 10,000kms away, 15,000kms maybe from Metropolitan France, it’s a few dozen kilometers from Madagascar (which also claims these territories), but it’s French! Go figure something out!! On the other hand, when one is like me more sensitive to Nature than to human society, it is not worse like that. In the current state of things, France has installed some soldiers to mark its territory and forbids any tourist, industrial, societal or other development. Believe me, with jewelry like this, it would take a completely different management to quickly turn these natural paradises into vacation sites for the rich. It may also be the future of the Chagos who are slowly and logically returning to Mauritius, one of the first tourist industrialists in the world... But that’s another story.

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đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Revenons sur ce voyage qui se prĂ©pare administrativement avant de se prĂ©parer sur son bateau. Il faut une autorisation. Et oui ! Les TAFF, qui ont un budget s'Ă©levant Ă  plusieurs millions par an, rĂ©glementent l'accĂšs en demandant quelques centaines d'Euros par semaine pour pouvoir accĂ©der Ă  l'atoll. 750€ la semaine Ă  l'Ă©poque si je me rappelle bien. C'est tout de mĂȘme le prix d'une semaine Ă  l'hotel service compris. Aux Glorieuses, il s'agit du mĂȘme prix, seulement pour pouvoir y jeter l'ancre. Qu'Ă  cela ne tienne, les procĂ©dures sont faites et nous avons notre papier. AussitĂŽt la sonnerie du collĂšge annonçant les vacances, nous sautons dans notre voilier, nous sommes en fin d'aprĂšs-midi, les alizĂ©s de Sud-Est nous font sortir du lagon de Mayotte, et nous nous prĂ©parons Ă  passer la nuit en mer pour arriver en matinĂ©e. C'est ce qu'il se passe, notre repas Ă©tait prĂ©parĂ© Ă  l'avance afin de ne pas avoir Ă  cuisiner en mer, la nuit se passe sans trop de complication et nous arrivons normalement fatiguĂ©s par 20-25kts de vent aux abords des Glorieuses en milieu de matinĂ©e. Un navire de la marine nous a repĂ©rĂ©s au radar et nous contacte pour connaitre nos intentions. Incroyable de venir en Homme libre en pleine mer pour se faire interroger par des autoritĂ©s sur un bateau aussi perdu que nous !! D'un cĂŽtĂ© ça gĂąche le plaisir, de l'autre ça dissuade de nombreux bateaux de pĂȘche braconniers de venir tout piller. Bref, je vous laisse vous construire votre opinion. L'accueil est chaleureux. Les gendarmes prĂ©sents sur l'Ăźle sont heureux de recevoir de la visite. Ils nous indique que poser le pieds par terre est interdit aux Glorieuses et que plonger l'est aussi. Nous Ă©tions informĂ©s de cela, mais loin des bureaux, nous trouverons des solutions en personnes intelligentes !
🇬🇧 Let’s go back to this trip that is administratively prepared before getting ready on his boat. An authorization is required. And yes! The TAFF, which has a budget amounting to several million per year, regulates access by requiring a few hundred euros per week to be able to access the atoll. €750 per week at the time if I remember correctly. It’s still the price of a week at the hotel service included. Aux Glorieuses, it is about the same price, only to be able to drop anchor there. Never mind, the procedures are done and we have our paper. As soon as the school bell rings announcing the holiday, we jump in our sailboat, we are in the late afternoon, the southeast trade winds bring us out of the lagoon of Mayotte, and we prepare to spend the night at sea to arrive in the morning. That’s what happens, our meal was prepared in advance so we wouldn’t have to cook at sea, the night goes without much complication and we normally arrive tired with 20-25kts of wind on the outskirts of Glorieuses by mid-morning. A navy ship has spotted us on radar and is contacting us to find out our intentions. Incredible to come as a free man on the open sea to be questioned by authorities on a boat as lost as we are!! On one side it spoils the fun, on the other it deters many poaching fishing boats from coming to loot everything. In short, I let you build your opinion. The welcome is warm. The gendarmes present on the island are happy to receive a visit. They tell us that putting one’s feet on the ground is forbidden at Les Glorieuses and that diving is too. We were informed about this, but far from the offices, we will find solutions in intelligent people!

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đŸ‡«đŸ‡· L'atoll est une rĂ©sidence incroyable pour les tortues vertes. Plus de 30 pontes par jours. Nous rencontrons un jeune volontaire venu recencer les pontes et les Ă©closions. Nous sympathisons. Jolies conditions de travail pour ce jeune !! Puis nous irons chercher un peu plus d'isolement autour du 2nd ilot de l'atoll situĂ© plus Ă  l'est. Un tout petit cailloux protĂ©geant des milliers d'oiseaux. Le vacarme fait par ces piafs au sunset, nous empĂȘche presque d'entendre nos verres trinquer, et nous rĂ©veille le matin comme un coq le ferait Ă  notre fenĂȘtre. Quel bonheur, ça sent la nature Ă  plein nez ! PlongĂ©e, snorkeling, balade dans l'atoll, dauphins, tortues, oiseaux, isolement, sable blanc, tout y est. A ne plus avoir envie d'en repartir. A jamais dans nos tĂȘtes.
🇬🇧 The atoll is an incredible residence for green turtles. More than 30 pontes per day. We meet a young volunteer who has come to represent the nests and outbreaks. We sympathize. Nice working conditions for this young person!! Then we will go look for a little more isolation around the 2nd island of the atoll located further to the east. A very small stone protecting thousands of birds. The noise made by these birds at the sunset, almost prevents us from hearing our glasses clinking, and wakes us up in the morning like a rooster would do at our window. What happiness, it smells of nature full nose! Diving, snorkeling, walk in the atoll, dolphins, turtles, birds, isolation, white sand, everything is there. Don’t want to leave anymore. Forever in our heads.

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Traduction

Note ! Text original is in french, english version. is only a reverso traduction

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Le paradis ... Sur terre, ou sur mer ...
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