[ENG-SPN] The Mysterious Origins of Santa Christina of Lena / Los misteriosos orígenes de Santa Cristina de Lena

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The history of this imposing work of architecture is a subjective one; a history lost in memory that dates back to a time of transition in which wolves and lambs played a leading role in what could well be defined as a spiritual apocalypse. Ultimately, this could be the beginning of the search for a sense of life through the treatment and configuration of stone. From that dark period, spanning, above all, between the 7th century and the unbridled fear of the arrival of the Year 1000, which, in the mentality of the time, foreshadowed the arrival of the no less feared Apocalypse prophesied by the Evangelist John, belong a series of buildings that, even after centuries have passed, continue to baffle and amaze both historians and visitors with their unusual characteristics, who do not hesitate to surrender unconditionally to their peculiar charm.

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Among them, the church of Saint Christina of Lena undoubtedly stands out, since it is not in vain considered one of the most captivating elements of the so-called 'Asturian Art or Pre-Romanesque'. However, many authors today prefer to refer to these charismatic buildings with the perhaps more accurate name of 'Repopulation Art'. Its true origins also constitute a mystery, including, of course, the identity of the mysterious Magister Muri or Master Mason who built it. The only thing about whom we know with any degree of certainty is that he was not the same person who worked on other similar buildings of the period. However, some evidence of his work, albeit fragmentary, does appear to remain.

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Perched on a hill near the beautiful Asturian town of Pola de Lena, like a metaphorical eagle keeping an eye on the busy traffic of the modern highway connecting Asturias with the Castilian Plateau, the church of Saint Christina of Lena was one of the great landmarks marking a pilgrimage route that, leaving behind the famous Cobertoirada mountain pass, delved into the unique landscapes of the most important municipalities of mountainous Asturias, such as Quirós, Teverga, and Proaza. Much of the route coincides with the so-called "Route of Relics": those same relics that, hidden for centuries on the summit of Monsacro, have been on display, since approximately the 11th century, in the Holy Chamber of the Cathedral of Saint Savior in Oviedo.

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La de esta imponente obra de arquitectura, es una historia subjetiva; una historia que se pierde en la memoria y que se remonta a unos tiempos de transición en los que lobos y corderos protagonizaron lo que bien se podría definir como un apocalipsis espiritual; en definitiva, este podría ser el comienzo de la búsqueda de un sentido de la vida a través del tratamiento y de la configuración de la piedra. De esa época oscura, comprendida, sobre todo, entre el siglo VII y el desaforado temor a la llegada del Año Mil, que, para la mentalidad de la época presagiaba la llegada del no menos temido Apocalipsis profetizado por el Evangelista Juan, pertenecen una serie de edificios, que todavía, al cabo de los siglos, continúan desconcertando y maravillando, por sus inusuales características, tanto a historiadores como a visitantes, que no dudan en rendirse incondicionalmente a su peculiar encanto.

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De entre ellos, sin lugar a dudas, destaca la iglesia de Santa Cristina de Lena, puesto que no en vano está considerada como uno de los elementos más cautivadores del denominado ‘Arte o Prerrománico Asturiano’, si bien, en la actualidad, son muchos los autores que prefieren referirse a estos carismáticos edificios con el nombre, quizás más acertado, de ‘Arte de Repoblación’, constituyendo, además, todo un enigma lo relacionado con sus verdaderos orígenes, incluyendo, por supuesto, la identidad del misterioso Magister Muri o Maestro Albañil que la levantó, personaje del que prácticamente lo único que se sabe a ciencia más o menos cierta, es que no fue el mismo que participó en otros edificios similares de la época, de los que, sin embargo, aunque de forma fragmentaria, sí parecen quedar algunas constancias.

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Situada sobre una colina en las inmediaciones de la bella población asturiana de la Pola de Lena, como una metafórica águila que no pierde de vista el intenso tráfico de la moderna autovía que conecta Asturias con la Meseta, la iglesia de Santa Cristina de Lena fue uno de los grandes hitos que marcaban un camino de peregrinación, que, dejando atrás el famoso puerto de la Cobertoirada, se adentraba en las singularidades de los concejos más relevantes de la Asturias montañosa, como Quirós, Teverga y Proaza, coincidiendo, en buena parte del itinerario con la denominada ‘Ruta de las Reliquias: aquellas mismas, que, ocultadas durante siglos en la cima del Monsacro, se exhiben, desde el siglo XI, aproximadamente, en la Cámara Santa de la catedral de San Salvador de Oviedo.

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NOTICE: Both the text and the accompanying photographs are my exclusive intellectual property and are therefore subject to my copyright.
AVISO: Tanto el texto, como las fotografías que lo acompañan, son de mi exclusiva propiedad intelectual y por lo tanto, están sujetos a mis Derechos de Autor.

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3 comments
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Wolves and lambs in 7th century architecture? 🤔 Intriguing start! Keen to learn more about Santa Cristina! 🐴

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It's a metaphor to avoid offending anyone. That era was marked by the Muslim invasion of Spain, and especially during that period, raids and plundering expeditions kept the Christian kingdoms of the North in jeopardy. Thank you very much for your interest, and best regards.

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