Through the Gates of Time: Discovering the History and Beauty of Al Jahili Fort in Al Ain

My husband and I like to get away from the grind and hunt down something new. Somewhere we’ve never been, even if it’s just a few hours drive away. That’s when we thought of Al Ain, a place rich in heritage, nature and quiet charm. We had heard so much about Al Ain’s green landscapes. So, off we go. Hit the road, curious, excited and ready for a new place to explore. The drive itself was a joy, calm desert views gave way to surprising patches of greenery as we approached Al Ain. With its rows of date palms, roundabouts decorated with flowers, and wide roads framed by mountains in the distance.

And then we saw it. Al Jahili Fort stands tall and golden. We were immediately struck by the elegance and strength of its structure. With its sandy colored walls, high towers and traditional Emirati architecture. Before entering Al Jahili Fort, visitors are greeted by an outdoor information table or board placed just near the entrance gate. This well-designed display offers a brief yet insightful introduction to the fort’s history and guides guests on what to expect inside.

Moving across its door felt like walking through the gates of time. Al Jahili Fort, one of the oldest, most awesome restored forts in the United Arab Emirates. Commended as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in AL Ain for its outstanding cultural and historical value. The fort unfolded into a spacious courtyard. The architecture speaks volumes. There’s a quiet brilliance here that doesn’t shout but instead sigh stories from the past.

Al-Jahili Fort is a 19th century fort in Al Ain, United Arab Emirates. The fort was built in 1891 in Al-Jahili Oasis by Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa Al Nahyan for the protection of date palm farmers. In 1955, it served as a base for the Trucial Oman Scouts. Since 1971, it is a tourist attraction in Al Ain. Wikipedia

First stop was the Visitor Center. We were heartily welcomed by the staff and offered fresh dates and a small cup of traditional Arabic coffee. A simple but kindly that instantly made us feel welcome. I loved to capture that moment, but I forgot to take a shot. I was too busy wiping the sweat of my face after wandering under the intense heat. The calm ambiance with its clean design and educational displays created the ideal introduction to the rich culture. Endless charm that awaited us beyond its doors.

The round tower of Al Jahili Fort is one of its most iconic and eye catching structures. A defining element of the fort’s architecture and history. Standing beside it, you can feel the strength and purpose it once held. An enduring symbol of protection, authority and the architectural heritage of Al Ain.

The next part of our visit led us into the old section of Al Jahili Fort. Where time seemed to slow down within its historic walls.

Stepping through the entrance, the atmosphere immediately changed to quieter, more intimate and filled with history. The open courtyard revolved the simplicity and practicality of desert architecture. The walls, made from classic mudbrick grasp a rustic charm. The wooden doors and shaded pathways offered a glance into what life had been like for those who once lived and worked here.

We continued our wander through the old fort. My husband saw a narrow hallway tucked away in one corner. It looked quiet and a bit mysterious. Curiosity got us and we decided to explore it. At the end of the hallway was a little, curved open door, low and narrow. It's like an entrance to a hidden chamber. I paused at first, a little scared of what's inside. But my husband, always the brave one, stepped inside without a second thought. Seeing him go in gave me the courage to follow. We found nothing but bare walls and a high ceiling. The space was quiet and almost echoing with silence. It felt like a hidden chamber. We stopped for a moment, taking in the silence. We couldn't withstand capturing the moment. We snatched a few selfies. Giggling silently as our voices sounded gently off the walls. My husband turned to me and smiled and said, I think that small door was specially made for you! He's mocking me about my height. Which made me crackle even more.

Our final stop was the Mubarak Bin London exhibition. We entered the exhibition, we were welcomed by a large portrait of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. His photo is full of insight and power. As we continued, a silence seemed to fall over us, and the walls themselves honored the legacy of Wilfred Thesiger, who once crossed the vast and unforgiving desert.

Sheik Zayed holds a saker falcon, larger and more expensive than the peregrine falcon (data from the exhibit)

Sir Wilfred Patrick Thesiger, also known as Mubarak bin Landan was a British military officer, explorer, and writer. Thesiger's travel books include Arabian Sands, on his foot and camel crossing of the Empty Quarter of the Arabian Peninsula, and The Marsh Arabs, on his time living with the Marsh Arabs of Iraq. Wikipedia

Walking in Thesiger's footsteps the Jahili fort connection (data from the exhibit)

This photograph was taken by Thesiger showing how the Jahili Fort and its surroundings look in the late 1940s.

Thesiger's travel equipment in Arabia
He carried a modern rifle and, following Bedu custom, wore an Omani-style khanjar(dagger) at his waist and a cartridge belt across his chest. The camel stick was another vital piece of Bedu equipment; a rider could make his camel get up or lie down, speed up or change direction ( data from the exhibit).

Inside this quiet room of Al Jahili Fort, the story of Wilfred Thesiger begins. Long before his legendary journeys across Arabia. But as a young man shaped by adventure, discipline, and a deep longing for the unknown. This room displays photographs that track his journey before Arabia, revealing the foundation of his character. A mixture of grit, lowliness, and respect for cultures different from his own.

Taken at the end of Thesiger's second crossing of the Empty Quarter on travelling north towards Saudi Arabia (data from the exhibit)

Wilfred Thesiger’s mythical voyage over the Empty Quarter would not have been viable without the constant courage of his two Bedu guides. They became his closest friends and his family in the vast desert.

These impressive photographs show a bit of daily survival during Thesiger’s trips beyond the desert. In one, he is seen digging out the Dhibi well to help water their thirsty camels. Another shows a group of Sa’ar tribesmen drawing water from a well. In the foreground, goatskins, traditional Bedu water carriers.

Musalllim bin Anauf and Said bin kabina cooking
Amair,Salim bin Ghabaisha, Muhammad bin kalut and Salim bin Kabina drinking coffee (data from the exhibit)

Thesiger joined Sheik Zayed on a hawking trip (data from the exhibit)

After thirteen years apart, Wilfred Thesiger’s return to Arabia brought a heartfelt reunion with his two trusted companions, Salim bin Kabina and Salim bin Ghabaish (data from the exhibit)

This Wilfred Thesiger exhibition gave us more than just photographs. His fearless journeys, his deep bond with the Bedouins, and his unwavering fascination with a life lived simply, but with great purpose. We were delighted by the exhibition. Especially my husband, as someone who deeply appreciates history and the art of storytelling through images, he moved through the exhibition with quiet reverence. Each image held him for a moment longer, like a conversation between the past and the present.
Our visit to Al Jahili Fort was a beautiful mixture of discovery, history, and quiet reflection.

Photos taken using Samsung S25 Ultra
Collage using Canva

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