Into the Serengeti for the Great Migration, Tanzania Safari
An action shot of a large crocodile tearing off a piece of zebra meet and sending it down its gullet.
What a day! It was sad saying goodbye to all our new friends and fond memories at Kichwa Tembo in the Masai Mara, but after 4 nights there, it was time to move on to our next spot in Tanzania's famed Serengeti National Park. We took a couple of small bush planes and a quick transfer by van across the border into Tanzania. We were pleasantly surprised to have the entire 12 seater plane to ourselves as we entered the Serengeti. Our new guide from andBeyond Serengeti Under Canvas was there at the airport, ready to meet us, and he even had a table of drinks and cookies set up in the shade of an acacia tree for us. Enoch, our guide, knew we only had two nights here to explore the Serengeti, so he wasted no time in packing the safari vehicle up for a game drive on our way to camp. First stop... the Mara River.
It was an auspicious first overlook down into the river. Not only did we see a few loud hippos, and crocodiles of all different sizes, but there were also carcasses of wildebeest strewn on top of rocks and boulders in the river. So many wildebeest and zebra cross this river, that some of them get trampled, or drowned, and their bodies get washed down river to get stuck on the rocks. It is a place where the circle of life, between prey and predator, life and death, often plays out. Especially this time of year. And we were about to get that experience, first hand.
Enoch pull off the road a short distance later after seeing a herd of wildebeest, gathering near the edge of the far bank of the Mara River. He said there is a chance they might try to cross. A lone zebra came up and joined the herd, which was a good sign. Often the zebras will be brace and lead the charge and the wildebeest will follow. And that is exactly what happened. Except being brave here, is not always good. The zebra was grabbed by a large Nile crocodile, which sent the wildebeest clamoring back up the far bank. We watched for the next thirty minutes as more crocodiles came in to feed on the zebra. Then, even Enoch was a bit shocked, as a huge hippo came in to scare off the crocs. Such action and we have only just left the airstrip!
As we pull away from the carnage, Enoch spotted our herd of wildebeest farther down the river bank... about to cross! We zoom up to the edge and have a wonderful view as they leap off the bank into the raging waters. Luckily all of the crocodiles were down river fighting over the zebra, so all the wildebeest made it successfully across. The real amazing thing was that we had this crossing all to ourselves. I'm used to sharing the Great Migration river crossings with 40, 50, sometimes even more other vehicles. Its a mad dash to get into viewing position. So this one will remain very special for me, as our own private moment in time. What a start to our Serengeti safari.
We stopped for cool cool birds, and for a lovely family of lions before finally heading towards our mobile tent camp. But Enoch surprised us with one more stop. Up on a hill, just past a huge herd of wildebeest, there was a table set up, filled with different bottles of wine and spirits, and finger food as well. It was the classic African safari sundowner, with a luxurious twist. We felt like royalty as we sipped our drink, while taking in the sunset, and meeting the four other people sharing our camp.
After that we were ready to head to camp. I loved seeing the look on Greg and Sue's faces as we drove up to the mobile tent camp. AndBeyond knows how to impress, and the tents at Under Canvas Serengeti definitely impress. We went to bed to the sound of distant lion roars, wondering how we could ever top today.
Boarding our Safarilink plane out of the Mara with our packed lunches.
Our first striped kingfisher. It isn't that far between our camp in the Masai Mara, and our new spot in the Serengeti, but we are getting new species right off the bat.
The migration is now minus one zebra. Crossing the Mara river can be deadly. But seeing a croc eat a zebra that we saw alive just a few minutes earlier can still be quite the shock. It is the great circle of life.
The Usambiro Barbet, is a star bird of the Northern Serengeti. This is one that birdwatchers come to seek out. We got lucky with a sighting before we had even reached our camp.
A large Nile crocodile thermoregulates in the sun, while conserving energy for the next big migration crossing event.
A black belly bustard strolls through the tall grass.
This is it! A Mara River wildebeest crossing. This was just upstream of the zebra kill, so all of these wildebeest made it across while the crocs were busy fighting over the zebra.
We could have just seen the river crossing and gone strait to camp and called it a good day, but the Serengeti kept throwing more our way, including an adorable family of rock climbing lions.
Another large bird that strolls through the grassland is this, a secretary bird.
I don't think our zebra friend is going to come out on top of this encounter. Once you are in the jaws of a crocodile this big, that is usually your end.
The Great Migration of wildebeest in East Africa peaks in excitement right here, as they storm down the banks of the Mara River and leap into the rushing water, hoping to avoid crocodiles, on their way to literal greener grass on the other side.
We cheered on these wildebeest as they successfully made it across the deadly Mara River here in the Serengeti.
Great Migration river crossing in action!
Up in the high rocky areas of the Serengeti, small rock climbing antelopes called klipspringers live.
These were our wildebeest that we witnessed making the river crossing. They were all washed off and elated for still being alive.
Portrait of a klipspringer (South african for 'Rock Jumper')
A pride of lions on the highest rock, looking down at us.
As we pulled in for a sundowner on top of a hill, a herd of wildebeest spread out below us in front of the setting sun.
When we finally made it to camp it was pretty dark. Our 'cozy' tents in our mobile tent camp were very inviting. We even got a cool hat to keep as a welcome gift.
When I said we would be roughing it in a mobile tent camp, I don't think Sue and Greg imagined this kind of luxury.
No fences here at andBeyond Serengeti Under Canvas Mobile Tent Camp. This must be how the Royal Family feels when they come on safari.
This mobile tent camp moves four times a year. It follows the herds of the Great Migration in their annual trip from the southern Serengeti to the Masai Mara in the north.
It was hard to say goodbye to our wonderful guide, David, at andBeyond Kichwa Tembo camp. He showed us an amazing time, and really set the tone for the rest of the safari. Thanks for everything, David!
Sue, modeling our bottle of Africa cream liquor made from the fruit of the marula tree. The picture of an elephant on the bottle comes from the story of elephants eating fermented fruit of the marula tree and becoming drunk.
Our home here in the Serengeti. Quite luxurious for a mobile tent camp. We could hear lions roaring from our bed.
New safari location, new guide. This is Enoch. He gave us the lowdown of the area before whisking us off to a river crossing of the great migration.
We took several small bush planes to get to our new location here in the Serengeti. We crossed the border with ease and had this coastal 12 seater plane all to ourselves. Real VIP's here. You really felt like you were in the cockpit. So it was a bit disconcerting when, shortly after takeoff, the cockpit computer states, "warning, terrain ahead. Pull up! The pilots shrugged it off so I figured it was normal.
After a zebra kill, a river crossing, and wonderful lions, we finished our drive with a surprise sundowner with the four other guests staying at our mobile tent camp. I believe I see some 12 year old Glenlivet Scotch in the mix there...
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This is so cool! i would like to do one day a Safari 😍
It is such a great experience. I highly suggest it. Let me know if you ever start planning and I can give you some notes.
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Ohh poor zebra 🦓😢
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