HOW TO SEW A STRAIGHT GOWN WITH BUSTIER USING ANKARA FABRICS

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It's your favorite girl @debbie-ese 😍
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If you have been a regular reader of my blog you'd observe some things in my pictures especially the sewing machine. You'd observe that I'm making this dress with a manual machine as opposed to my EMEL Industrial Sewing Machine. Well, the reason for this is that there has been power outage for some days and I had to keep on clearing the jobs at hand so that I won't be struggling with deadlines. Of course, I prefer using the Industrial machine because of it's ease and neat sewing but I can't wait until power was restored.

Moving forward, this gown is one out of the three dresses that I'm making for a client that is travelling for an event by the end of the month or thereabout. The dress is a straight gown with bustier made with ankara fabrics. It takes quite a lot of time and paying attention to details to make a dress that has a bustier. If you can also observe from the pictures attached to the post, I wore three different outfits, this means that I used approximately three different days to finish the gown. Well, this doesn't mean that it is the only thing I did throughout the three days. I had to add other engagements to the making of the gown.

Materials Needed

• Ankara
• Breast pad
• Paper stay
• Black lining
• Hemming gum
• Scissors
• Tailoring chalk
• Threads that matches the fabrics

Step by Step

• Note that this gown has a bustier, so the nipple span determines how the bustier is cut. The nipple span for this dress is 8 (on fold 4), so it is use to cut the bust measurement.
  

• Next, I chalked the normal bodice and I ensured that I used french curve to get an accurate and precise bustier curve.
  

• Then I ironed breast pad to the front pieces of the upper part of the dress. Afterwards, I ironed paper stay on both the front pieces and linings.
  

• Now, to cut the back pieces, I chalked the bodice.
  

• Let's move to the cutting process of the skirt part of the gown. We'd take the the bodice measurements, thatis the underbust, waist, hips and the knee.
  
  The length of the upper bustier is 14 inches and the clients full body length is 62 inches, so we'd deduct the length of the bustier from the total length and it will give us the length of the skirt part (62inches - 14 inches = 48 inches).

• To cut the back part of the skirt, use the front piece to cut it. However, remember to include zipper allowance at the back piece of the skirt.
  

• Join all the linings of the front piece together, join the lining of the back piece too. Then iron where the pieces are joined properly.

• Join the front piece of the ankara fabric as well as the back piece too
  

• Now we will use the lining to turn the fabric, that is, use the front piece of the lining to turn the front piece of the ankara fabric. Repeat the same process for the back lining and back ankara fabric.
  

• Also, use the lining to turn the front and back piece of the skirt part of the fabric. When this is appropriately done use your iron to press the fabrics.
  

• Then join the bustier and skirt together neatly. Afterwards, shapen the dress into the customer's actual measurements.
  

• You can wear the gown in your body to check the fitting and see if there are obvious errors that needs to be corrected.
  
  NB: I'm not done with the dress yet. The final look will be posted when I'm done with the embodiment.

All Images attached to this post are mine.

Thanks For Reading and See You in My Next One.