San Blas: Walking Into the Memory of a City

Have you ever wondered where cities actually begin? Until not too long ago, I hadn't. In fact, I had never stopped to think about the possibility that cities are born from a particular point, a place that gradually expands and eventually determines the shape of an entire urban landscape. It is a fascinating idea, isn't it? San Blas is now a parish within the city of Valencia, Venezuela. But if we turn the clock back roughly 470 years, we find something completely different: a neighborhood that once housed the local aristocracy. This was the wealthy, influential and culturally significant part of colonial Valencia, a place where much of the city's early identity began to take shape.

Spain did not simply come to the Americas to conquer territory and expand its empire into what it considered "no man's land." It put down roots, quite literally. The church that gives San Blas much of its identity is older than the United States of America, and it remains one of the clearest links between what we were during the colonial period and what we continue to preserve today. I am not saying that I personally follow all the traditions that remain common in this part of Valencia, but it is impossible to deny that fragments of our national identity and culture are still alive here. Catholicism, local traditions, older generations passing history and customs down to children, and even the way people speak can feel distinctly different from the rest of the city.

San Blas is a place that has chosen to preserve its colonial heritage while blending it with the identity Venezuela developed after independence. And then there is the food. Good food, traditional sweets capable of making even the least enthusiastic person about desserts stop and pay attention. The climate is slightly cooler because of the nearby hills, which create a natural backdrop of fresh air and beautiful scenery. Centuries ago, this area served as one of Valencia's main entrances. Simón Bolívar himself passed through it, as did generations of ordinary Venezuelans. It contains places that are centuries older than entire modern countries. And yet, for reasons I still struggle to understand, very few people seem particularly interested in what is right in front of them. Here in San Blas, however, there is a persistent effort to protect the history, culture and significance of everything surrounding this remarkable part of the city.

Being able to witness all of this made me realize just how much I had overlooked despite being a resident of this state. I have walked these streets countless times and never stopped to understand why the people of San Blas, a place that is almost more like a historic town within the city, feel such a powerful sense of pride in belonging here. I won't pretend that everything looks perfectly preserved. Some places clearly show the marks of time, and their aging facades reveal exactly how relentless that passage can be. But then there is the music, people playing traditional Venezuelan games in the street beneath enormous trees, and that particular warmth and friendliness that makes the whole experience unexpectedly moving. Even better, I recently discovered that there is an Instagram tour that can be booked to explore some of the area's more mythical and lesser-known places, the kind of spots only locals really know. I love discovering that there are still corners of my own city that I have yet to understand, learn from and, eventually, share with all of you.