Around the Westfjords (1) - first impressions

I didn’t plan a summer holiday this year. Unexpectedly, my colleagues at work offered to cover for me, so I could take four days off. At the last moment I decided to head for the Westfjords.

This was the only part of Iceland - I delayed it again and again - waiting for the perfect moment. I decided that such a moment would probably never come, and I had to take the first small step. I packed my old Honda - a colleague installed a bed of his own design in the back - and I was ready to go. On the day I left, I realized I was starting my trip exactly on the second anniversary of my move to Iceland.

I knew I had only four days and wouldn’t have time to see anything properly. So I decided to go roughly around the Westfjords - sticking to the main roads. The last stop was to be the small settlement of Norðurfjörður, where my friend from work was spending her holiday.

The photos from the first day are not impressive. I took them during short breaks to stretch my legs. I skipped many sights without stopping - I just enjoyed the views from the car and the moment itself.

I passed four campsites and, after seven hours of driving, a real crisis hit me. I was crossing a gloomy pass between two fjords. I pulled into a parking area - I took a short walk and left, promising myself I would stop at the next campsite. It was already 11 p.m. - dusk had come and I could barely keep my eyes open.

Soon I reached Tálknafjörður Campsite, where I went straight to sleep. Luckily, with a bed in the car, I didn’t have to pitch a tent. So my first day on the road wasn't very romantic ;)

I woke up in a completely different mood. Rested, I felt excitement and curiosity about what lay ahead on the route. I decided not to use the campsite bathroom, but to visit a nearby place with hot pots. Such places usually have showers - often more comfortable than at the campsite.

Pools and hot pots are very important places here. People go there after work - to sit in warm water or in the sauna - to talk about everyday things with neighbors and keep social ties. They are very common in Iceland, and I love using them. I skip places built for tourists - polished and fancy - not my style. I love wild hot springs and small local spots off the main tourist route, where mostly locals relax. The hot pots near Tálknafjörður were just like that. To get there I had to turn onto a local gravel road that goes around the fjord. On site, there were a few tourists and an Icelandic family.

It wasn’t fancy at all - but it was the best rest I could give myself :)

Below the hot pots I found plastic containers filled with ice-cold water to cool down. Then I realized I could also cool down in the ocean. A path leads there - you cross the road and go down to the beach. The ocean around Iceland is very cold even in summer - cooling is guaranteed.

This stop took quite a bit of time, but every minute was worth it. This is how I like to travel - unhurried, stopping in lesser-known places. It makes me happy :)

In that moment I thought I would most like to drive around the fjords on the local gravel roads that circle them - no shortcuts. I would like to stop in every tiny settlement and see all the small churches away from the main road. I have similar plans for other parts of Iceland - so I plan to live to at least 250 ;)

After the break I went to the nearby small town of Bíldudalur, home to the Sea Monster Museum and a café. I bought a sea monster poster and had a coffee - bathed in the wonderful Icelandic sun.

That day I didn’t drive very far. Besides the stop at the hot pots and for coffee, I also stopped at a small wooden cabin by the road. According to a note on the door, you can use it for shelter or even for the night - the only request was to close the door so curious sheep wouldn't get in. So I took the chance and looked inside.

The cabin had a simple retro interior - no extra luxuries. It reminded me a bit of my grandmother’s barn in the countryside. On a small table I found a guest book - so anyone can stop there for a rest. 

Next to the cabin I found elf houses :)

What caught my eye during the trip was the amount of road work across the Westfjords. Many roads are being rebuilt into wider, smoother ones. On the one hand I know it’s needed - on the other, nothing captures the feel of Iceland like roads full of holes and stones ;)

That afternoon I also visited the most popular tourist spot in the Westfjords - the Dynjandi waterfall. Even I couldn’t resist stopping there. You’ll find the photos in my next post - I’ll also write about day three. See you soon!