Around Lake Mývatn (2) - the monochrome world of Hverfjall

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(Edited)

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Last time I left you at Hverir - rotten-egg smell included. Today we’re heading somewhere the wind blows every smell away and, honestly, almost takes your head off. We’ll climb Hverfjall, a crater that hit me hard six years ago when we first met. Back then it was just a tourist loop, but it stuck so much that four years later I came back to Iceland for longer. Maybe for good - who knows?

Climbing the black moon

From far away Hverfjall looks simple - a perfect cone. I have no idea why I didn’t take a photo from that angle. The closer you get, the more the scale hits you. It’s one of the biggest craters of this kind in the world - about a kilometer across and more than 400 meters high. It formed around 2,500 years ago in a powerful explosive eruption, when hot magma met water. I love disaster scenes, but I’m glad I wasn’t here for that one ;) 

From the first steps it’s hypnotic. Looking at it feels like a small meditation - monochrome palette, repeating lines, your eyes just stay there.

On the rim of the void

The rim gives you a 360-degree view of everything around. That day the clouds were heavy, so seeing far wasn’t easy. I don’t remember being disappointed. 

Tiny human figures on the rim - how small we are next to the power of nature.
Tiny human figures on the rim - how small we are next to the power of nature.

I watched the surface of Lake Mývatn, saw steam rising from the Krafla power station, lava field Dimmuborgir and the Hverir field. It looked like Saruman’s orc factory.

Life against all odds

A walk around the rim takes about an hour. The wind was merciless - I think it always is. And yet, in small spots with a bit of shelter, you can see life holding on, clinging to the loose ground.

Hverfjall, unlike the colorful and noisy geothermal field, gives you space and stark, monochrome beauty. During our stay at Mývatn we also found one more place that blends both moods. We took a short hike to the Leirhnjúkur volcano, part of the Krafla system I wrote about before. I’ll take you there next time - see you :)

On the way to Leirhnjúkur :)
On the way to Leirhnjúkur :)


--- Thanks for stopping by! --- @astinmin
I'm the only author of the text and photos

Icelandic stories:
A year of transition - small trips and moving to Iceland
Where my home is - "Iceland in miniature"
Winter at my place - not as scary as they said
Chasing spring in Grundarfjörður
Wolf Beans: purple beauty or invasive species? A trip to Ingjaldshóll
Welcome to Mars: Kerlingarfjöll Mountains
Katla's tongue – Sólheimajökull Glacier
In the shadow of the glacier: the stunning Þakgil campsite
Moss and ice: the road east
Basalt and turquoise: Stuðlagil Canyon, East Iceland
Cracked earth - driving to Stykkishólmur
Off the beaten path: Hafrahvammagljúfur Canyon and the hot spring shower
The road to Mývatn: through rain and wilderness
Around Lake Mývatn (1) - Víti Crater and the Hverir geothermal field

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it really feels like stepping onto another planet!

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Nature is always so amazing, and this place proves it. It doesn't matter that the environment and colors are monochromatic; that crater is absolutely beautiful. I also think about how wonderful a volcano or tornado or whatever it is that appears to be a disaster is, but then it passes and leaves behind wonderful landscapes.

Looking at that photograph with people walking on the edge, I thought the same thing as you, how small we are and how we are here to admire greatness. Each photo is a delight. You have visited a unique place that is over 2,500 years old. It is a privilege, and that last photograph is majestic. Thank you for taking us to see this exotic place through your visit. A big hug!


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This place is truly impressive. I'd love to be on a volcano like that someday. You captured everything beautifully in your photos. It was a pleasure to watch :)

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Dziękuję, miło że trafiłeś i na to konto - piszę również po polsku jako @wadera :)

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No cóż, dobre zdjęcia Islandii przyciągają jak magnes! :)

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Hiya, @lizanomadsoul here, just swinging by to let you know that this post made it into our Honorable Mentions in Travel Digest #2677.

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Congratulations @astinmin! You received the biggest smile and some love from TravelFeed! Keep up the amazing blog. 😍 Your post was also chosen as top pick of the day and is now featured on the TravelFeed front page.

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Woow, Iceland... memories... in this area I was only by the geothermal grounds, didn't explore the mountains around - but thanks to Your shots - now I really regret that ;). Beautiful! Cheers!

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I hope you'll have a chance to explore Iceland more one day 😊 Cheers!

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