The Best of Liguria: A Slow Journey from Sestri Levante to Portofino

Hello friends. After visiting Genoa, we hopped in the car and followed the Ligurian coast, heading toward Portofino. Then we moved on to a city that has hosted many international conferences. After that, we reached one of the most photographed spots along the Italian coast.

But first, I had to say goodbye to Boccadasse. Though it’s a neighborhood of Genoa, it feels almost like a separate village. Everything you see here is quite similar to the towns you’ll find further along Liguria. On our right, large trash containers were lined up. People here actually sort their garbage: organic, plastic, glass, cardboard. Everything’s done by the book.

I want to highlight a charming and very "Italian" detail. People dry their laundry outside. It had been raining for days, but when the sun finally came out, everyone hung out their clothes. This part of Genoa is known for preserving its historic texture and authentic spirit. It’s similar to Montmartre in Paris or Trastevere in Rome. Life here is humble, even poor. Most homes aren’t luxurious; they’re old fishermen’s houses.

Restaurants serve fresh fish daily. The menu depends on what’s caught that day. Not every restaurant operates this way. But some definitely do.

Right in front of us, there was a real storm. The choppy sea, paired with the grand façades of the buildings, created an incredible view. On the right, there’s a trattoria. I think the stormy and windy weather actually added to the atmosphere. I wish I could share the smell. The air is filled with salt and iodine. You can genuinely sense the sea in every breath.

In my opinion, this area is better for walking and taking photos than swimming. The beaches are tiny and, let’s be honest, neither comfortable nor very safe. If you’re looking for a beach holiday, I’d suggest Turkey or warmer, cleaner seas like Bari. But walking here, enjoying the solitude, and soaking in the views is far more rewarding. That’s why I don’t mind traveling off-season. Hotel prices are often half or even a third of the price. Still, tourists come even in October.

Let me briefly mention transportation. Driving isn’t the most practical option in Liguria. There’s a public transport system. Buses run conveniently. In Genoa, there are tickets for just 10 euros that give you unlimited access to the city and nearby towns like Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure. You can even use this ticket to get to Sestri Levante.

There’s also a train network here. The railway stretches everywhere, so traveling by train is easy. With a car, you’re always searching for a parking spot. There’s a massive marina here, but almost no space to park a car. Just pedestrian paths, and a few motorcycle spots. If you like scooters, renting one could be a smart move.In my opinion, the train is the best choice. It’s fast, budget-friendly, and stress-free. But keep in mind, public transport in Italy doesn’t always run on time. Don’t expect German-level punctuality.

There are many beautiful towns along the coast on the way to Portofino. Most of them look quite similar, so I didn’t stop. If you have more time, I’d definitely recommend checking a few out. Some even have quiet, lovely beaches.

We reached Santa Margherita Ligure. We parked the car here and walked to Portofino because this was the last free parking area. Parking in Portofino is very expensive and nearly impossible to find. So we left the car and walked 3.5 kilometers. I wish I could say it was a delightful walk. Then it suddenly started pouring, a heavy downpour.

There are hiking paths here, and the route is genuinely pleasant. Walking past Italian architecture and admiring the emerald green sea. The water here really is something else, at least in color. And that scent... the sea breeze and salty air.

You can walk about 2 kilometers along this trail. Then the path winds upward and becomes more of an eco-hiking trail. At the end of this walk, you reach Portofino.

I hadn’t been here in a long time. And to be honest, I walked those two kilometers in the rain for a reason. I knew exactly where we were headed. We were approaching a real treasure, and I sincerely want you to see it too.

This tiny town of Portofino. One of the essential features of Liguria and Portofino especially, is its flowers and citrus trees that seem to appear everywhere. The tops of the pine trees look like little hats. It’s genuinely enchanting.

I made it as far as the eco-trail in Portofino Park, but the rain got even heavier. The weather didn’t quite go my way. But the hotel did. We stayed in a wonderful place. Best of all, it had an incredible terrace with a view of the Ligurian coast.

As we walked a bit further to the left, we saw the sea. The sky had a few patches of blue, which meant there was hope for better weather the next day. Below us ran a toll highway. That’s how I arrived. As you know, there are many toll roads in Italy. The system is simple: you take a ticket at the entrance and pay at the exit.

We were near Sestri Levante. According to my plan, this was where we’d end the day. But plans don’t always work out. My room was quite spacious and had a nice kitchen. And a rare detail a kettle. I’ve rented many apartments during my travels and never seen a teapot. Just coffee machines.

The next morning began with one of the best views in Italy. And I’m not exaggerating. Just look at this beauty. This is Sestri Levante, still a hidden gem on the Ligurian coast.

Most of the vacationers here are Italians. Look at this viewpoint. An incredible panorama. In 2018, this was the most photographed coastal spot in all of Italy. And now we were seeing it with our own eyes.

I want to share a thought with you. I don’t know if you’ll agree, but I believe Liguria, especially Sestri Levante, doesn’t make it onto many travelers "most beautiful places" lists. Even people who’ve visited Italy multiple times sometimes don’t know about it. Those lists usually include an island or places like the Amalfi Coast, Positano, or Portofino. But Sestri Levante? Hardly ever mentioned. Yet I think it’s a paradise that lacks nothing. Just look at this view.

This bay has a unique feature. A stunning sandy beach, and the sea comes right up to the houses. But there’s no manmade boardwalk. No asphalt. The ground floors of the homes are just painted in a different color and maybe built with a slightly different material for contrast. As a result, you can walk barefoot into the sea. Isn’t that amazing?

This is probably thanks to the location of the bay. Even during storms, there’s a breakwater that blocks the waves. So the big waves rarely reach the houses, allowing the beach to stay so close. What a unique and wonderful experience. People can step out of their hotels and have breakfast at cafés right on the shore.

Until recently, Sestri Levante was one of Italians favorite holiday spots in Liguria. Mainly because, unlike famous places like Cinque Terre, there weren’t hordes of tourists. But now, social media has revealed this hidden paradise to the world.

Another advantage of Sestri Levante is its flat walking paths. Unlike the steep, stair-filled streets of Cinque Terre, this place has long promenades by the sea and wide beaches to sit and relax. Especially great for elderly visitors.

That’s a rarity in most Ligurian towns, which tend to be hilly and cramped. Even Santa Margherita Ligure isn’t this comfortable. And that hill we looked down from earlier is now right beside us.

This place is impressively spacious. There are plenty of areas to explore and relax. Locals have built a great system here. There’s a lovely bike path that’s so inviting, it makes you want to jump on a bike immediately. The bicycle parking is also thoughtfully planned. Everything is as it should be.

Especially on a day like this, walking here is an absolute delight. We started the day like a fairytale. I was genuinely impressed by Sestri Levante. Now I have a small favor to ask. Leave a comment with your impressions of this city. What part did you like the most? And most importantly, please share your favorite place in Italy in the comments. Try to pick just one. I’d love to read each one.

After that, we went to the castle of Rapallo. Bad news: the city’s main landmark is currently under restoration. Built in 1551, this castle was originally constructed as a defense against pirates. Unfortunately, we can only view it from the outside now, as entry is not allowed. Still, since it's one of the dominant structures along the coastline, it remains impressive even from a distance.

The surrounding buildings are also quite beautiful and unique. If you take a closer look at their facades, you’ll notice that some parts are real, while others are painted illusions. When we turned left, we saw a building that is almost entirely painted. A few shutters are real, but most of the facade is just artwork. This is the coastline, right next to the sea. There's constant moisture and frequent rain. Yet, despite the harsh conditions, these painted facades do not need to be refreshed every year. Sometimes not even once every ten years.

Rapallo’s history is also quite fascinating. It remained part of the Republic of Genoa for a long time, as it's only 30 kilometers away. It officially became part of Genoa in 1229. You can read more about Genoa’s history in my earlier post.

Everything changed for Rapallo in 1868, when the train station was opened. This made the town accessible to everyone. First, aristocrats arrived and built villas. Later, Rapallo began to host major international conferences.

Perhaps the most important of these was the Genoa Conference in 1922. Why was it held here, of all places? I believe the answer lies in the scenery. A dramatic sky, filled with clouds and warmed by the sun hitting the coastline, creates a truly enchanting atmosphere. Portofino is nearby, and so is Santa Margherita. This place offers a perfect mix of natural beauty and easy access.

Then came our second attempt. We returned to the start of the trail. I really think this path is worth walking. The alternative is to walk alongside a noisy main road. Luckily, there are plenty of signs along the way, so you won't get lost. You pass under a beautiful stone arch and keep going. The path climbs for about 1.5 kilometers and rewards you with stunning views of the coves below.

We walked about one kilometer. The path had ups and downs. First, we saw a villa overlooking Portofino. An old stone wall still stands beside it. And finally, we saw Portofino. The small peninsula was right in front of us. On our right, the outlines of the buildings weren’t very clear, but this was the famous town with only 500 residents, yet admired by people from all around the world.

We reached the town’s only square. Portofino used to be a simple fishing village. In the early 20th century, it became a favorite destination for the global elite.

Today it’s extremely touristy, but I think it genuinely deserves the attention. This place feels very special. Usually large yachts dock here, but today there were only small boats. The main castle stood directly in front of us. Only 455 people live in Portofino today. New construction is forbidden. The town has remained just as it was 50 or 60 years ago. Only restoration is allowed. New buildings can only be built in the nearby villages. That’s why land here is extremely expensive.

We strolled around the small square. In the morning, the sun lights up this area completely and gives it a completely different atmosphere. Still, we decided to continue along the coast and follow the path leading to the castle. If hiking is too difficult, you can take the bus up to this point. From there, you only need to climb a few steps. Even if you're tired, just sitting by the sea and watching the view is more than enough. That day, the sea was quite rough. In some spots, water was spilling onto the pavement, which is a rare sight.

To me, Portofino isn’t about luxury yachts or cute houses. What really matters here is nature itself. There is an incredible harmony between the landscape, the sea, the greenery, and the buildings. Everything feels deeply connected. The trees, the lizards, the smell of fresh green leaves. It all feels alive. Imagine that this place has been a popular destination for over a hundred years. Yet, it still feels vibrant and untouched.

Now we walked through a bamboo grove. The scent of flowers, the sound of nature. In autumn, the citrus trees here, lemons and mandarins will be ripe, probably around late October or early November.

This is the reason to climb this hill. I’m not just talking about the church or chapel, but the breathtaking viewing terrace. Let's look to the left first. We already recognize the view. It’s the iconic aerial view of Portofino. It might not have been bathed in sunlight, but the hills still looked wonderful. Let’s not forget the rest of the peninsula. To our right, the sea is visible too.

As you can see, I think it was a beautiful experience, although the weather made things challenging. My original plan was to visit Cinque Terre, the national park. But unfortunately, the weather pushed me in a different direction.

As I’ve said before, I believe Sestri Levante is one of the most beautiful and underrated places in Italy. The Ligurian coast does not get the attention it really deserves. Compared to places like the Amalfi Coast or other famous destinations, it is often overlooked. Even Venice. I’m sure most people visiting Italy have been to Venice, but very few ever make it here.

And here is my final thought on Portofino. We all know the famous places like Nice, Monaco, or Sanremo. Many people visit those places with high expectations and end up disappointed. But I believe Portofino lives up to every expectation. It’s hard to reach, expensive and small. Yet it is so magical and enchanting that I sincerely hope everyone gets to visit it at least once. If you ever have the chance to come here, don’t miss it. That’s all for now. See you again very soon.